The Joys and Sorrows Of a Life At Sea » plachtění|sailing

Janna’s Track So Far

Jana Benešová — Tue, 02 Jul 2013 03:35:28 +0000

We have been meaning to post maps with at least partial tracks of our voyages so far, for we can describe from where towards where and really try not to miss any island or rock that we passed by but in this case words just can’t compete with a map. A single glimpse and you are immediately up to speed! Not to mention the tongue-twisters and jaw-breakers that lots of the Filipino geographical names present to us ignorant foreigners. Try telling someone: “Today we passed Guintungauan and anchored at Ditaytayan.” Or Inambuyod, Dilumaoad, etc. Plus we found out, that sometimes same toponyms are used for different places. So far we anchored at two “Maricaban”s already. The former being an island in Verde Passage between Luzon and Mindoro, the latter a bay on the north coast of Busuanga Island.
In short, a map is a map and here we finally managed to create one (sometimes the speed of the internet and poor internet access here is real maddening! Especially when you spent last 30 something minutes clicking your track on Google Maps only to lose it all when the internet connection is suddenly lost) that roughly follows the trail we sailed so far, including all the anchorages we stopped at. In retrospect our favorite place so far is definitely Apo Island, whose gorgeous underwater world and breathtaking sunsets are just unbeatable! Not many people stop there but if you find yourself in the vicinity, you must definitely give it a try!

View Taiwan to Puerto Princesa in a larger map

Farewell Subic Bay

Petr Šimon — Sat, 11 May 2013 01:12:48 +0000

We’ve been here in Puerto Galera for a week, mostly working on finalizing the translation of the taiwanese novel Butcher’s wife by Li Ang. This is done and we have time to recount our last days in Subic Bay and the passage from there.
The third day in Subic we unpacked our bicycles and went on a supply trip to Olongapo. We tried to recognize the streets and corners we’ve seen the previous day from a window of a taxi driven by the good man Elmo. Soon we got lost in the unwieldy streets of Olongapo, but thanks to modern technology and google maps we’ve soon found the market and laundry we were looking for.
I waited buy the bikes, because we forgot to bring locks (well we had the locks, but not the key, so…), and Jana dived into the market. From time to time she emerged, hands full of plastic bags with veggies and chirped about how cheap everything is, almost the same as in Taiwan, and how lovely all the ladies at the stalls are.

Then we passed by an optician and got new glasses made, because I broke one pair just few hours off Kaohsiung. We left our laundry at a small shop near the gate to Freeport and went back to the yacht club, where we met a group of mechanics from Broadwater marine. We’ve chatted with them for a bit and revealed our troubles with the engine. Young guy jumped up willing to take a look, but we told him that we are waiting for a mechanic we arranged through the Watercraft venture, but we took his number, just in case.
Than we called Spanky (real name) of Watercraft and asked about the mechanic he promised to provide today.
“Well, he’s busy, he might come tomorrow, or maybe on Monday.”
I hang the phone and called Sandro, the young mechanic from Broadwater. He said he will come at three, so we started to cook lunch. Suddenly Sandro appeared followed by a rain squall.
He asked us where are we from and if we carry vodka. We said we have something much better (home made slivovice). Then we revealed our engine and the inquiry began.

Sandro tried couple of moves we tried ourselves and then started disassembling the hoses and pumping fuel into the system in few stages. This was naturally accompanied by diesel spills, but we were quick enough to catch most of them in time and prevent too much contamination of our bilge. In the end Sandro managed to start to engine from a jerry can and then even from the tank. We were happy and celebrated by a shot of the delicious Moravian spirit.
With engine running, we were free. Except that it was Friday afternoon and we needed customs clearance out, which won’t be available until Monday. So we decided to suck it up and stay till then and do some work on our translations and on the boat.
On Monday we went to the marina office for our check. We were supposed to come at 9am. The guy at the office didn’t know anything about us, so we told him to get someone who knows something and went to port control office for our harbour clearance.
Back in the yacht club we got our customs clearance too and also the check from the marina. When we arrived, we were tied to a T dock and after two days asked to move to a different berth. So since we were at two berths the marina decided to charge us twice for water. It wasn’t much, but I said no. The basic charge is for 1000 liters. We were charged for 4000l at the first berth and then again 1000l at the other.
“You have filled your water tanks, that’s why you have used so much water,” said the clerk. I have asked him (not very politely), how much water does he think that we can carry in the boat. He just gave me a stupid grin.
“And you have washed your boat.”
“With 4000 liters of water?”
Then he gave up, but he still charged us the minimum charge for two berths.
“You were at two berths, weren’t you?” I couldn’t deny that and neither was I willing to spend another minute of my life talking to that sleazy face.

We had a lunch, prepared the boat and started the engine. We were about to cast the lines, when a guy from a yacht next to us approached Jana with some pointers about our route, especially the reef in Puerto Galera.
Then we finally left that annoying place. The wind was fresh and on the nose, so we motored, hoping to get as far from the shore as possible before the night sets in.
Once out of the bay, the wind was getting weaker by the minute and just when we were passing a flock of anchored tankers, the wind died. The engine followed. We were in a safe distance from the ships, we always keep our distance in case we loose the wind or the engine or, like in this case, both. The wind has picked up a bit, so we were able to drift-sail south away from Subic, the ships and the shore.
Oh, well. Sailing ship again. Just to be prepared for any eventualities, we disassembled the fuel lines and rigged a jerry can from which we could run the engine. We started it just to be sure that it runs smoothly and then continued under sail.
Soon we had the mainsail down and gennaker up.

We met very few fishermen or ships, only around midnight a big fat black cloud started to approach. The wind picked up and we hoisted reefed main and small jib. We rode the along the squall till the morning, when the wind died again and we knew that we won’t be at Puerto Galera before dark. The light wind conditions followed us the whole day. We run the engine for a while in the afternoon, but soon we noticed that the fuel consumption is quite high. We didn’t realize that the engine pump is actually pumping more fuel that is actually consumed and we had the return from the engine directed to the main tank. So out went the wrenches and rubber hoses and finally we had a system that worked. Except that most of our fuel was now in the main fuel tank, which is usually a good thing. Fortunately we still had about 7l in one jerry can and another one full. We decided to keep sailing and see how far we can get.
When the darkness fell we already had the jerry can rigged in the cockpit, we rewarded ourselves with a hearty dinner, this night might be quite long.
Then the seas lit up. We’ve noticed the small fishing banghas leaving the shores and filling the seascape around us. Small light were flashing yellow, green, red, blue, anything that the fishermen could buy. No idea which lights are from boats, which are crab pots and which are the terminals of a half submerged net.

Immediately we decided that we are not going for Puerto Galera. It was still about 20 miles away and we were still battling against a current. The engine was happily humming. We headed east towards the Maricaban Island and a small cove on its western tip. We will have to approach it at night, there won’t be any lights, but the skies were quite clear and the moon will soon come up. At least, once we go in the lee of the Malicaban Island the current got weaker and we were making a good speed.
We reached the cove at around midnight. I’ve prepared the anchor and Jana slowly entered the cove announcing the depth. When we reach below 6 meters we dropped little over 20 meters of chain, our beloved Rocna bit immediately and we were soon snug in the cockpit, watching the stars and the big rock cliff the loomed above us.

The morning was just… clear water, lush tropical island with a white beach sand… After a slow breakfast, the wind picked up, we sailed off the anchor and started to dream about a lunch in Puerto Galera. We decided to sail as much as possible, but our speed was below 2 knots and we still had to cover about 15 miles.
We hand steered and at about 2pm we were about 4 miles away from our goal. The wind had dies of course. We could have drifted and waited, but we chose not to, started the engine and in an hour tied to a club mooring in one of the most beautiful bays in the world.

We Had Enough of Life in Public

Jana Benešová — Wed, 13 Feb 2013 05:43:04 +0000

We’ve left Kaohsiung, at least for few days. We couldn’t stand the place anymore. We had enough of our life in public. It was on our minds for quite some time now, but there was always an excuse or two, which stopped us from leaving. True, our berth in Kaohsiung is really convenient. Everything is within the reach of a hand. Food, tools, material for the never ending repairs. In fact, we don’t have that much to do anymore and for what we still want to do, we have everything we need. Janna’s waterline had risen a bit already. After all we have loaded 30l of paint and epoxy, rest of wood that we still could use in the future, 20l of backup diesel.

Most important reason for getting out of Kaohsiung is that we are starting to forget what silence sounds like. We do live in the Chinese society, so there it shouldn’t be surprising that there’s a bit more noise. The Chinese are by nature playfully noisy, which is cute and most people are just unbelievably friendly, but we grew up on the Bohemian meadows, groves and peripheries of small Czech towns, we simply need a good helping of silence and quiet.

We have also received the worst Christmas present ever. In December, they closed the public toilets just next to the marina, where we stay, so we had to go to the public toilets at the ferry station across the bridge.

The walk, we didn’t mind. The eyes (and mouths) wide open stares of the local bums and their taxi driver friends, the same guys every morning, we soon started to detest. Especially Jana. I tried to walk with my chin high up, making a strenuous effort to show that I don’t care.

One day we said enough. We wanted to leave on Friday, but our departure was delayed by troubles with LPG. We were expecting to burn the rest of the gas in our last cylinder any day now, but it just wouldn’t oblige. For almost ten days we were waiting for the gas to run out, baking breads and pizzas, frying, brewing tea and coffee. Nothing seemed to be enough to deplete the gas.

Finally, Friday evening, the gas ran out. What a relief! Naturally, it was in the middle of cooking a well-deserved dinner.

We recanted the gas from a Taiwanese bottle into our American cylinders. Gravitation rocks! It usually takes us about three hours to fill our five kilo cylinders. In the meantime, we have re-sewn the cover for our roller-furling genoa, finished lazy-jacks and baggywrinkles. We had also chance to practice our machine sewing skills on a new cover for the LPG cylinders. We still need a bit of practice to get the stitches even, but the result is functional.

In the end, we’ve spent another weekend being monitored by the hysterically curious mainland Chinese tourists.

Monday morning, we have stocked up some fresh produce, packed some stuff that we stored under the dinghy on the pontoon and set out to sea to test not only our downsized propeller but most importantly our new mainsail.

We’ve complained about the problems with our propeller before. After the latest adjustment we were almost certain that it’s fine, but just to be sure we asked Volvo Penta people from Kaohsiung to come and have a look. We are hopeless amateurs after all. On the phone we first inquired, how much they charge for an hour. Well, if there is nothing wrong with your engine and we don’t have to repair anything, we can’t charge you, can we? You just got to love Taiwan! Last time engineers from Volvo Penta touched our engine was in Singapore and their negligence lead to a broken engine mount and big repair. But this time it was different. The engineers were really helpful.

Turns out, our engine was OK, the good men only suggested we ask the company to make our propeller even smaller. So back into the water (luckily the Kaohsiung harbour was quite clean those days), take the prop off, jump on the ferry to Qijin and cross our fingers hoping the grinder gets it right. He did.

Monday morning we woke up to a nice breeze and just about the time when we got everything packed, the wind died. We strolled to the breakwater where a lovely breeze slapped us on our cheeks and lifter our spirits. We ran back to the boat, too excited to walk, cast off and finally got out of the polluted harbour.

Once we passed the coast guard station, we revved the engine up and looked at each other totally amazed. Do you hear what I hear? The engine is much quieter than before. No vibrations, no nothing. The new prop worked perfectly. Also the fuel consumption should drop, we have to test it someday.

Excited about the engine we hoisted our brand new mainsail. We saw her up few times in the harbour to test the boom hardware and our lazy-jacks.

Jana was steering as usual and once the sail was up, she pushed the tiller slightly to one side, the sail filled up with air and the camber bellied out. We gasped for breath. We were completely exultant over it and we remained in the state of total joy for the next few hours, days in fact. We rolled out our genoa and struggled slowly in a light air. We allowed the engine to help us for about an hour and take us out of the shadow of the Firewood hill, which was obviously ruining the nice breeze that was blowing further out. The hill likes to do it every time. Then we began to glide over the almost flat surface of the sea, speed above three knots, north by west, towards our new abode in a small fishing harbour Xingda, about fifteen miles north.

We didn’t have to touch the sails for the next few hours. We were conveniently following the west coast of Taiwan, only once or twice we gave way to a fishing boat, mostly by slowing down.

Right before our destination there is a huge gas loading structure, which extends more than a mile to the sea, where the big tankers tie up.

We were getting closer and closer and started to discuss whether we are going to make it. We played with Janna at the borderline of the no-go zone, but soon it became apparent that we won’t be able to head high enough and will be blown down on to the structure. Quick tack and ten minutes of heading away from the coast. Suddenly the wind moved more to west. Seems like we would have made it around that gas tanker after all.

We tacked back and following a slow curve while easing the sail, we passed behind the breakwater.

From the breakwater it’s about another mile to the inner harbour. We were told that the coastguard might come to check upon us when we get there, but being a foreign boat, we watched the coast guard station and surely enough, two guys in orange overalls ran out waving and watching us in the binoculars. We responded by the same — binoculars and waving. But the guys on the other side didn’t seem to be satisfied with our waving and signaled that we should go to them. We started the engine and rolled the genoa, because the station is in a narrow passage and it was time for fishing boats to get out through there. We drifted in front of the station for a while. We refused to tie up to a nasty looking wall, about three meters high, coated with truck tires tied with thick chain.

There is rather sophisticated system for foreign yachts to register their coastal passages. But the problem is that the coast guard stations don’t have access to that system. So these guys knew nothing about us, were asking for a form that you are supposed to leave with the coast guard station at the harbour you are leaving from. In the end we persuaded them that they could call Kaohsiung and check that we really came from there.

Just a little hassle. Nothing major. We let the engine revolve slowly and sailed in a beautiful breeze into the inner harbour basin where the floating pontoon and our new base camp is.

We were greeted by our old Taiwanese friends, who own a lovely sailboat S2 9.2. They were so kind to take us for a dinner (nice Korean restaurant in Tainan) and show us around a little. The Taiwanese are extremely lovely and helpful, but don’t trust their judgment of distances. “Very far” can turn into an easy 15 minute bike ride. But these distance warnings are definitely a great way to a pleasant surprise!

We finished the day by a lovely pu-er tea on a Lagoon cat in the new Tainan An-ping marina. Thank you Brian from Lucky Grass.

The next days were like a dream come true. No people. Complete silence. During the day we revised our translation of the novel Magic garden by Taiwanese author Li Ang, at about four o’clock we would finish and set out to explore the country around on our folding bicycles. There is a wonderful fish market nearby, which sells fresh and deep fried delicacies of the sea. You walk through a narrow street, stalls on both sides. At every stall you are attacked by outstretched hand offering a taste of fish tiny and small, sushi, shrimps, small crabs, squid and what not. At the end of the street you turn around and walk along the other side. When you get back from where you started, you are stuffed!

Two days ago we returned to Kaohsiung, to give a talk at the center of the Buddhist humanitarian organization Tzu Chi. Their theme for this year is “living simple life”, so our way of life seemed quite appropriate there. The talk went quite well, apparently. Before the talk we were treated with a delicious lunch by our other Taiwanese friends Jessica and her lovely family. Another thank you!

We also wanted to meet Swiss cruisers on a cat Celuann that arrived to Kaohsiung just when we left. They came from the Philippines were they spent two years, so we were eager to get some information from them, and possibly help them arrange any repairs they might need to have done here in Taiwan.

It is national holidays because of the Chinese New Year, so we are once again living in public, this is with capital P. And capital A. In fact, it’s a big ass PUBLIC and I feel like a little startled kitten, eyes wide open, gasping for air and wishing I was somewhere far far away.

Fortunately the date of our departure and return to the quiet Xingda harbour has been set for tomorrow!

20.-21.6.2009 Labuan – Kota Kinabalu

Jana Benešová — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:27:59 +0000

16-19.6.2009 Kuching – Labuan

Jana Benešová — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 23:19:37 +0000

12-13.6.2009 Jana in Kuching

Jana Benešová — Sat, 07 Apr 2012 00:37:59 +0000

11.6.2009 Finally, I’m Flying to Borneo!

Jana Benešová — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 00:12:38 +0000

23.5.2009 Lumut to Singapore

Petr Šimon — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 04:02:29 +0000

Malajští rybáři

Noční plavba byla v klidu, jenom Pavlík se málem srazil s rybáři, kteří rozsvítili až na poslední chvíli. Od té doby jsme cca každých deset minut projížděli horizont před námi baterkou, abychom ty telata přinutili zareagovat. Jednou to fungovalo, jinak jsme buď další rybáře nepotkali, nebo na nás z vysoka…

Kolem poledního jsme projeli kolem přístavu Klang. Tady jsme posledně z Janičkou křižovali mezi spoustou tankerů mířících do přístavu, ale dnes všechny lodě, které jsme zahlédli, kotvily, takže ze slibovaného dobrodružství nebylo nic. Pořád vykládám své obavy o přejezdech lodních dálnic, kde tankery pálí hroznou rychlostí, ale zatím nic. I pověstný Malacký průliv je velice poklidný, rybářů je málo. Kládu jsme viděli jen jednu.

V podvečer jsme se rozhodli zkontrolovat stav nádrže. Zlá předtucha se potvrdila. Motor skutečně žere téměř 2x tolik, než je uvedeno v tabulkách. Při 2000 otáčkách to vypadá na 3.5 litrů za hodinu. Nu co, prostě jenom budeme muset přehodnotit naše motorovací očekávání. Zamířili jsme proto k Port Dicksonu do maríny Admiral. Neměli jsme o ní moc informací, ale na britské mapě byla zakreslena, takže jsme věděli, kde přibližně ji hledat. Ještě to byl pěkný kousek ale kolem deváté nebo desáté bychom tam mohli být. Před námi se na vlnkách pohupovaly bójky naznačující, že tam jsou sítě. První jsme se snažili slušně objet, ale když před nás rybáři natáhli druhou a třetí, prali jsme to přímo přes ně. S plným kýlem si to můžeme dovolit. Nakonec jsme si uvědomili, že mezi bójemi jsou sítě tak jako tak potopené, takže jsme ani za jednu nechytli.

Kolem 10 večer jsme se přiblížili k maríně a asi další hodinu a půl jsme strávili prohledáváním pobřeží. Na VHF nikdo nereagoval a nic podobného maríně jsme nemohli najít. Báli jsme se plout blíže břehu, protože v okolí bylo spousta skal a mělčin a navigovali jsme podle elektronických map, kterým není radno věřit. Navigační pomůcky nikde. Vše se ztrácelo v záři světel na břehu. Kolem půlnoci jsme proto zakotvili v asi 5 metrech vody a poměrně klidně spali. Já se vzbudil asi jenom třikrát, většinou na záchod. Mé standardní sny o problémech s lodí jsem měl, ale nechávaly mě docela v klidu. Jenom jednou či dvakrát se mi rozbušilo srdce, než jsem se stačil zorientovat při pohledu z okna. Přeci jenom mám pořád ještě děs z toho, že se uvolní kotva a loď bude odvlečena proudem na nějakou skálu.

V sedm budíček. Promnul jsem si oči a koukám, hned vedle nás stěžně. Dalekohled vše potvrdil. Kde jinde jsme mohli zakotvit než hned před marínou! Budím Pavla. „Kecáš!“ dostalo se mi místo dobrého rána, „já se na to…“. Inu kapitán, který zastaví pár metrů od teplé sprchy a piva, si koleduje. Ale taky jsme mohli skončit na mělčině, což posádka uznala. Hrozba vzpoury byla zažehnána.

V kanceláři maríny nikdo nebyl. Pár informací o místních poměrech nám podal soused Kanaďan, který zde už nějaký ten pátek pobýval. Hned jsme se vypravili do města. Já chtěl nejdřív na imigrační a regulérně se přihlásit, ale pak jsme se rozhodli, že odjedeme ještě téhož dne.

S plnou nádrží jsme odrazili asi ve 4 odpoledne. Motor pěkně šlapal, vlny se uklidnily. Drželi jsme se víc pobřeží. Poklidná noc.

U Singapuru nás přepadla bouřka... za minutu klesla viditelnost tak na 200m

Kolem poledního jsme minuli ostrůvky Pisang a Kukup a vpluli do kotviště tankerů na západě Singpuru. Pěkně do nás zezadu foukalo a spolu s proudem jsme uháněli neuvěřitelnou rychlostí 8-9 uzlů. Kolem se přehnaly dvě bouřky, a když už jsme si říkali, že jsme vyvázli se suchou kůží, na pravoboku se objevila šedivá zeď a rychle se blížila. Skočil jsem si pro bundu a instruoval Pavlíka, aby se zavřel dole a navigoval. Hned jak se to přihnalo, bylo jasné, že kotvištěm by bylo nebezpečné proplouvat, protože nebylo vidět na krok. Zamířil jsem proto do známých vod Johorského průlivu, kde leží Raffles marína. Nefoukalo moc, ale viditelnost byla dost špatná. Nedaleko se z mlhy vyhoupl černý trup tankeru. Stále jsem měnil kurz, abych se jednak vyhnul kotvícím monstrům, a zároveň nebyl bokem k vlnám, které se docela vybičovaly a házely s Jannou jako krabičkou sirek. Pavlíka moje změny kurzu znervózňovaly a stále hlásil: Jedeš blbě, tam je ostrůvek, jedeš na nějakej šutr, seš moc blízko pevnině. Ale já věděl, kde jsme. Však jsme to tu s Janičkou dostatečně projezdili minulý rok.

Proplétáme se kolem tankerů (mračna se stahují)

Za dvě hoďky jsme byli u maríny a bouřka samozřejmě už byla ta tam. Pavlíka trochu rozmrzela nehostinná krajina západní části Singapuru, ale vykoupilo to pivo. Bylo úterý a to maj v Raffles jedno-za-jedno. Večeře se také povedla. Noc bez komárů a ráno pryč. Konečně se tedy dočkám toho, z čeho jsem měl největší strach: obepluju Singapur. Vítr opět nefoukal, jeli jsme 6-7 uzlů na motor. Lodí bylo všude hodně, projeli jsme kolem majestátního majáku na ostrůvku Raffles na jihu Singapuru a za tři hodiny jsme se uzívaní a unudění pohupovali na západním karanténním kotvišti. Singapur byl sice obsypaný tankery, ale téměř všichni byli zakotvení, vyhýbat jsme se museli snad jen dvou lodím.

Nudná plavba kolem Singapuru

Bylo asi kolem jedné hodiny. Slyšel jsem, že se na celníky musí dlouho čekat, ale nám stačilo dvakrát zavolat a už byli u nás. Asi patnáctimetrový motorák se k nám obratně přiblížil, dokumenty jsme předali v deskách nad vodní hladinou z ruky do ruky. Asi dvě míle dál byla One 15 marína. Sprcha a pak úředníci. Papírování v této maríně je dost zdlouhavé a Číňan, který se nám věnoval, byl trochu protivný, takový ten mladíček, trochu zaražený, pořád se mračil, vtipy mu unikaly.

Hned jsme jeli na kapitanát, kde vše proběhlo velice hladce. Už bylo pozdě, takže naší obchodnici s námořním materiálem Jessie jsme odložili na další den.

Vyrazili jsme do čínské čtvrti na docela dobrou večeři a pivo.

Ve čtvrtek Jessie, delfinarium a podvodní park. Moc pěkné.

V sobotu ráno přivezli řetěz. Lilo, takže vše šlo do lokru u mola. Kotva, 20 kilová kráska Rocna, byla prostě ohromná. Netrpělivě jsem čekal, až ten ceďák trochu přestane, černé myšlenky mě obcházely… Co když ta kotva nebude pasovat na náš čeleň? Jakmile se ta smršť uklidnila, vytáhl jsem kotvu na příď a pořádně si oddechl. Vypadá to, že to půjde. Stejně jsem byl napnutý až do odpoledne, kdy jsme přetáhli nový řetěz a kotvu vytáhli na její místo. Pasovala perfektně. Vlastně ještě líp než stará CQR.

Zbytek dne jsem vyměňoval olej a instaloval nové světlo na stěžni a vůbec oblézal loď s dalšími malými úkoly.

V úterý vyplujeme. Kousek od nás stojí mega jachta, 100 stopý škuner Infinity s německou vlajkou. Už dva dny nás jedna holčina zve na návštěvu, ale zatím jsme se různě vymlouvali. Na lodi je kolem deseti mladých lidí, z nichž nás zdraví asi jen dva, ostatní sotva zabručí „hello“, když je pozdravíme. Inu tady už to není trampská osada.

V pondělí jsme se ráno vydali na kapitanát odhlásit se. Ráno nás pozvala opět Sophie na drink a malou večeři. Řekli jsme, že přijdeme, ale opět se nám moc nechtělo. Ve městě jsme se rozhodli zajít do kina. Do maríny jsme se dostali asi v devět a já zaběhl na Infinity, jestli ještě nespí, že se omlouváme za zdržení. Pak jsem přitáhl i chlaďák s vínem a Pavlíka, který už byl uvelebený a nikam se mu nechtělo.

Nakonec to s nimi bylo docela fajn. Snaží se jet kolem světa a propagovat uvědomění o ochraně oceánu.

Abych nezapomněl. Hned druhý den nás asi tři kluci z Infinity zvali do gay klubu. Bylo kolem dvanácté. Už jsme popili pár piv, takže jsme odmítli, ale celou dobu nám vrtalo hlavou, co tím vlastně mysleli. Ukázalo se, že jeden z nich je homosexuál a že prostě vede další dva kluky na nějakou show. Odmítli jsme rádi, prý to bylo drahé jako čert.

V pondělí ráno mi měli do místního obchůdku dodat palivový filtr, originál Volvo, tj. pěkně mastný, abych si podle něj mohl ve městě koupit náhradní a levnější. Třikrát jsem se musel připomínat, třem různým lidem, dodat malý pitomý filtr se zdála být komplikovaná obchodní transakce. Když jsem přišel do krámku, na dveřích jsem našel pouze lístek, že mám zavolat čtvrté osobě, což se ukázal být (myslím) náš povedený známý Mr. Fung, kvůli kterému jsme málem zlikvidovali motor. Držel jsem se ale a nijak se k němu nehlásil. Číňan ale nezklamal, prý že mu řekli, že chci olejový filtr, palivový, že prý stojí 75 singapurských dolarů. Protočili se mi panenky. A prý že mi ho přiveze ve tři odpoledne. Seřval jsem ho a rozčílený jsem šel na loď vymontovat filtr z lodi. A protože vše zlé je k něčemu dobré, filtr nešel vyndat. Mike ho v Lumutu utáhl velice pečlivě klíčem, který já neměl.

Zuřil jsem, filtr mi prokluzoval, navíc se mi dělalo ze smradu nafty blbě. Popíjení minulé noci mi nepřispělo. Kocovina, práce ve stísněném prostoru, stále v předklonu, 32 stupňů. Po pěti minutách jsem vždy s téměř obráceným žaludkem vyskočil z lodi, abych se nadýchal čerstvého vzduchu.

Po asi půlhodině zoufalství jsem si na Infinity zašel půjčit klíč na filtry, ale dali mi jen takový po domácku udělaný, který mi stále prokluzoval. Nakonec jsem celou ruční pumpu, pod kterou je ten filtr našroubován sundal, a společnými silami jsme filtr sundali.

Ve městě jsme naštěstí sehnali podobný, i když trošku širší filtr. Hned po návratu na loď jsem se ho pokusil namontovat, ale nejprve to moc nešlo. Zatemnilo se mi před očima. Pumpuju a koukám, nafta teče všude kolem. Po chvíli zkoumání mi došlo, že jsem filtr jenom málo utáhnul. Tradá, motor naskočil, nic neteklo, kámen ze srdce na zem spadlý.

Plavba řekou, Sebana Cove na dohled

Ve středu ráno jsme kolem deváté nastartovali a vydali se do karanténní zóny, kde nás asi během čtvrt hodinky odbavili a my zamířili mezi kotvícími tankery do Sebana Cove v Malajsii.

Asi po třech hodinách jsme vjeli do řeky, na které Sebana leží. Ještě asi čtyři námořní míle. Projížděli jsme malebnou řekou, břehy plně neprostupného porostu.

Sebana Cove je krásná zátoka, pěkný resort, drahé pivo, daleko do civilizace. Imigrační papírování za nás udělali za poplatek recepční, vlastně jsme neměli na vybranou. Šli jsme se naložit k bazénu, kde jsme pokecali s dvěma staršími Holanďany.

Malajští rybáři

S plnou nádrží jsme odrazili asi ve 4 odpoledne. Motor pěkně šlapal, vlny se uklidnily. Drželi jsme se víc pobřeží. Poklidná noc.

U Singapuru nás přepadla bouřka... za minutu klesla viditelnost tak na 200m

Proplétáme se kolem tankerů (mračna se stahují)

Nudná plavba kolem Singapuru

Hned jsme jeli na kapitanát, kde vše proběhlo velice hladce. Už bylo pozdě, takže naší obchodnici s námořním materiálem Jessie jsme odložili na další den.

Vyrazili jsme do čínské čtvrti na docela dobrou večeři a pivo.

Ve čtvrtek Jessie, delfinarium a podvodní park. Moc pěkné.

Zbytek dne jsem vyměňoval olej a instaloval nové světlo na stěžni a vůbec oblézal loď s dalšími malými úkoly.

Nakonec to s nimi bylo docela fajn. Snaží se jet kolem světa a propagovat uvědomění o ochraně oceánu.

Plavba řekou, Sebana Cove na dohled

Ve středu ráno jsme kolem deváté nastartovali a vydali se do karanténní zóny, kde nás asi během čtvrt hodinky odbavili a my zamířili mezi kotvícími tankery do Sebana Cove v Malajsii.

Asi po třech hodinách jsme vjeli do řeky, na které Sebana leží. Ještě asi čtyři námořní míle. Projížděli jsme malebnou řekou, břehy plně neprostupného porostu.

Malajští rybáři

S plnou nádrží jsme odrazili asi ve 4 odpoledne. Motor pěkně šlapal, vlny se uklidnily. Drželi jsme se víc pobřeží. Poklidná noc.

Hned jsme jeli na kapitanát, kde vše proběhlo velice hladce. Už bylo pozdě, takže naší obchodnici s námořním materiálem Jessie jsme odložili na další den.

Vyrazili jsme do čínské čtvrti na docela dobrou večeři a pivo.

Ve čtvrtek Jessie, delfinarium a podvodní park. Moc pěkné.

Zbytek dne jsem vyměňoval olej a instaloval nové světlo na stěžni a vůbec oblézal loď s dalšími malými úkoly.

Nakonec to s nimi bylo docela fajn. Snaží se jet kolem světa a propagovat uvědomění o ochraně oceánu.

Ve středu ráno jsme kolem deváté nastartovali a vydali se do karanténní zóny, kde nás asi během čtvrt hodinky odbavili a my zamířili mezi kotvícími tankery do Sebana Cove v Malajsii.

Asi po třech hodinách jsme vjeli do řeky, na které Sebana leží. Ještě asi čtyři námořní míle. Projížděli jsme malebnou řekou, břehy plně neprostupného porostu.

2.5.2009: Deck Hand

Petr Šimon — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 23:33:36 +0000

25.4.2009: Back in Reality

Jana Benešová — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 23:22:32 +0000